Birmingham’s Best Eats: Cook-off! The Thomas Keller vs. Frank Stitt Challenge
Tuesday, August 31st, 2010Roast Pork Loin Stuffed with Rosemary, Bacon, and Onions,
from a recipe in “Frank Stitt’s Southern Table.”
Photos by Jason Horn.
By Jason Horn
I make a dish a week (or so) from “Ad Hoc at Home,” by Thomas Keller, arguably America’s greatest chef. Everything’s made from scratch, using time- and labor-intensive methods.
It is my summertime personal quest, The Thomas Keller Challenge, documented on the Messy Epicure.
But how would Keller fare against Birmingham’s indisputably best chef, Frank Stitt?
The plan
- Choose similar recipes from “Ad Hoc at Home” and “Frank Stitt’s Southern Table” [aff. links]: stuffed pork roast and coconut cake.
- Spend a day-and-a-half in an orgy of cooking.
- Have foodie friends over to judge the fracas.
The results
I’m sad to report that our hometown contender put up a valiant effort, but came up short.
Both roasts were delicious, but Keller’s version was legendary, while Stitt’s recipe merely great. I think the brining in Keller’s instructions left the pork perfectly moist. The fig and balsamic jam stuffing was sublime as well.
Stitt won the cake battle, though only by a nose. Both versions had some issues: Keller’s cake is a bit dry, while Stitt’s cake collapsed after baking (this seven-layer cake had just five layers). Of the near-identical meringue frostings, Keller’s recipe is much easier to make. My ultimate coconut cake would pair Stitt’s pastry-cream filling and rich cake with Keller’s meringue.
Recipes, after the jump …