Wade on Birmingham

Archive for 'Food'

Birmingham’s Best Eats: Dreamcakes Bakery – our cupcakes can beat up your cupcakes

Monday, August 9th, 2010

Dreamcakes cupcakes

Cupcake varieties from Dreamcakes Bakery include
(clockwise from left) Curious George, Chocolate High (twice),
Curious George, Old Fashioned Caramel and Dreamsicle.
Photo by Jen Barnett.

By Jen Barnett

Cupcakes are yesterday’s news.

Despite still being the sweet, moist, single servings of frosted deliciousness you remember from 2005, or maybe 1975, fickle foodies have kicked them to the curb in favor of up-and-comers like macarons or milkshakes.

Screw ’em.

They can’t help it if they live in epicurean hot spots like New York, L.A. or San Francisco, far from the most divine cupcakes to ever spring from heaven’s hearth, found inside Dreamcakes Bakery.

Jan Moon opened the shop in 2009 in the Edgewood area of Homewood. She tested and developed recipes in the Southern Living and Cooking Light test kitchens on Lakeshore Drive. The display cases are stocked with trays of colorful cupcakes, but Dreamcakes makes wedding cakes and other delicacies, too.

Cupcake flavors include Chocolate High (tastes like a Hershey bar), Creamsicle (a dead ringer for the frozen treat), Curious George (peanut butter and banana) and Old Fashioned Caramel (a personal favorite). The clever flavors are only part of the allure; the cakes themselves are moister and denser, the icing creamier and more flavorful, than any we’ve ever tasted.

Nonetheless, if you can’t bear the faux pas of noshing on a passé pastry, Dreamcakes also sells macarons.

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Dreamcakes Bakery

  • 960 Oxmoor Road, Homewood [map]
  • 205-871-9377
  • Dreamcakes-Bakery.com
  • 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Tuesday-Friday and 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday

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Also:

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Jen BarnettJen Barnett is the managing editor of VisitSouth.com, a travel hub with tips on where to stay, what to do and where to eat in the South. Her favorite dish in Birmingham is her mom’s fresh veggie plate, but she didn’t bring enough for everyone, so she won’t mention it again.

• • •

Hungry for more? Check out the menu of Birmingham’s Best Eats!

Birmingham’s Best Eats: Get started in canning with easy peach preserves

Sunday, August 8th, 2010

jarred peaches

Make summer last all year by canning fruits
in season. Photos by Amanda Storey.

By Amanda Storey

With all the work I do in food justice and recipes, you’d think I’d know how to “put something up.” In the South, it’s just another way of saying “canning and preserving.”

Birmingham's Best EatsYounger generations are often far removed from growing their own food, much less canning and preserving or knowing the harvest calendar. As I began to discover how to eat locally, seasonally and sustainably, I needed to make the most of my bounty through canning.

Enter Angela Treadaway, who covers food safety, preservation and preparation as a regional extension agent for the Alabama Cooperative Extension System in six counties around Birmingham. Her 2-hour class at East Lake United Methodist Church was only $5! And I walked away with a better understanding of techniques and equipment, plus two jars of peach preserves.

It’s imperative for folks to attend at least one class just to for hands-on practice. These regional resources can guide your preservation journey.

Learn how to make peach jam from Angela Treadaway. The class will be 10 a.m. till noon on Aug. 21 at the University Baptist Church in Montevallo. $5. To register, call Treadaway at (205) 410-3696.

• • •

jarred peaches

Peach preserves
(recipe from Angela Treadaway, Alabama Cooperative Extension System)

  • Preparation time: 5 minutes
  • Cooking time: 45 minutes
  • Makes five 1-pint jars

Ingredients

  • 6 cups fresh peaches (about 7 to 9 peaches, depending upon size), pitted and cut into chunks
  • Ascorbic acid (powdered vitamin C)
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 3 cups sugar
  • 1 package dry pectin, any brand of low- or no-sugar type
  • 1 tablespoon butter

Also:

Clean out jars and fill them with scalding hot water. (Hot jars are needed for the final step.)

Wash your peaches in cold water. Remove the large pit and discard. Cut up the peach halves (skin on) into 3/4-inch chunks. Don’t cut them too small, because some of those nice hearty chunks should remain intact in your jam. Place peaches in water with ascorbic acid to prevent darkening.

Place the 6 cups of chunks (water drained) and lemon juice into a large saucepan on medium-high. Add sugar and stir slowly and steadily. (Trust me: Being consistent in your stirring is one of the secrets to amazing jam.) It will seem a bit dry at first, but as you keep steadily stirring, the heavy chunks and the sugar will break down into a beautiful golden-orange colored mixture. Keep stirring!

Once the mixture starts to bubble, add butter and keep stirring. Once the mixture gets to the rolling boil, where the mixture keeps bubbling regardless of stirring, quickly add pectin. Keep stirring for 1 minute after pectin has dissolved. Turn off heat.

Get one hot jar and pour out water. Ladle the hot liquid jam into the jar, and repeat for remaining jars. You may get five full jars or less depending on how the peaches panned out in the mixture. Place lids and screw bands on jars. Place them in a hot water bath canner, and process for 5 minutes.

• • •

Amanda StoreyAmanda Storey is project coordinator of Healthy Kids, Healthy Communities, a 4-year grant aimed at fighting childhood obesity in Jefferson County. In her spare time, she writes about her true passion: food as a connector to communities on her blog, Food Revival (@foodrevival).

• • •

Hungry for more? Check out the menu of Birmingham’s Best Eats!

Birmingham’s Best Eats: Choice chocolates – best 5 treats for serious chocoholics

Saturday, August 7th, 2010

Yum Brownies Dark Chocolate Chocolate

Yum Brownies offers a dark chocolate sensation
that’s fudgier when cold. Photo by Shaun Chavis.

By Shaun Chavis

Birmingham's Best EatsWhen you need chocolate that delivers — and I mean that in a liberating sense, as in, you need chocolate that makes torments vanish and brings bliss to your soul — these are Birmingham’s best fixes.

(My standard: Most candy-aisle fare and cocoas made from packets of powder rate as non-chocolate.)

• • •

Yum Brownies Dark Chocolate Chocolate

Studded with chunks of extra-bittersweet Callebaut chocolate. Find these treats at Pepper Place Saturday Market on select weekends, or e-mail eatyumbrownies@gmail.com.

• • •

Edgewood Creamery Extreme Chocolate milkshake

The ice cream is a blend of dark and white chocolates, and it makes a shake with an old-fashioned, rich taste.

  • $4.50 regular, $5.50 large
  • Where to find: Edgewood Creamery, 936 Oxmoor Road, Homewood, 35209 [map], (205) 874-1999, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday and 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Also available at Mountain Brook Creamery, 2715 Cahaba Road, Mountain Brook, 35223 [map], (205) 870-0092. 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday and noon-9:30 p.m. Sunday.

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Avo & Dram Derby Sundae

What sends you is the warm ganache made with Callebaut chocolate over boozy bourbon ice cream. Heady stuff, this!

  • $8
  • Where to find: Avo & Dram, 2721 Cahaba Road, Mountain Brook, 35233 [map], (205) 871-8212, 4-11 p.m. Monday-Tuesday, 4 p.m.-midnight Wednesday-Saturday and 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4-10 p.m. Sunday.

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Askinosie Davao Dark Milk Chocolate Bar + Fleur de Sel

This splurge is meant for stashing: It’s a 62-percent cacao single-origin milk chocolate bar from Askinosie.

  • $7.99
  • Where to find: V. Richards, 3916 Clairmont Ave., Forest Park, 35222 [map], (205) 591-7000, 8 a.m.-8 p.m. seven days a week

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Iz Café Chocolate Mousse Bomb

A mound of ethereal espresso chocolate mousse on top of devil’s food cake, dipped in ganache.

  • $4 for large, $10.80 for a dozen minis
  • Where to find: Iz Café, 2518 Rocky Ridge Road, Vestavia Hills, 35243, (205) 979-7570; Iz Cafe Too Bakery and Market (Iz Cafe Altadena), 4700 Cahaba River Road, Birmingham, 35243, (205) 262-9733; hours for both locations: 7 a.m.-8 p.m. weekdays and 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Saturday.

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Also:

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Shaun ChavisShaun Chavis (@shaunchavis) is the co-founder of Birmingham’s Foodie Book Club, and a food journalist whose work has appeared in “Cornbread Nation 4: The Best of Southern Food Writing,” eGullet and Friends Journal. In the fall, she will teach a course on food and literature at Samford University’s Samford After Sundown.

• • •

Hungry for more? Check out the menu of Birmingham’s Best Eats!

Birmingham’s Best Eats: Chicago Mike’s magic hot dog stand

Friday, August 6th, 2010

hot dog - Chicago Mike's, Homewood, Alabama

A kosher hot dog at Chicago Mike’s in Homewood.
Photos by Jason Horn.

By Jason Horn

I grew up in Chicago, land of magnificent hot dogs. Yes, Birmingham is known for its hot dog joints too, but the sausages (mostly pork) we smother in chili at places like Pete’s Famous downtown, while good, are just not the same as a giant all-beef kosher dog.

Birmingham's Best EatsSo I almost caused an accident in downtown Homewood the first time I noticed the words “Chicago” and “kosher hot dog” on the white-and-red restaurant known as Chicago Mike’s. (OK, it’s really a shack, but never let plastic tables and chairs scare you away from anywhere.)

Before I go any further, a Windy City caveat: Chicago Mike’s is a bit of a misnomer. Mike isn’t from Chicago (though he lived there for a while), and the place doesn’t serve Chicago-style dogs (mustard, onion, relish, tomato, sport peppers, pickle spear and celery salt on a steamed poppy seed bun).

hamburger - Chicago Mike's, Homewood, AlabamaBut Chicago Mike’s makes the best, and definitely cheapest, lunch in town. A huge all-beef dog that snaps when you bite into it like a hot dog should is $2.50.

Mike’s burgers are fantastic as well: $3.25 gets you a messy cheeseburger with all the trimmings, including sweet-spicy homemade sauce.

• • •

Chicago Mike’s

  • 2701 18th St. S, Homewood, 35209 [map]
  • (205) 868-4728
  • Hours: 10 a.m.-3 p.m. weekdays

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Also:

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Jason HornJason Horn (@messyepicure) is a Birmingham writer, sometime culinary student and big fan of zombie movies who blogs at The Messy Epicure.

• • •

Hungry for more? Check out the menu of Birmingham’s Best Eats!

Birmingham’s Best Eats: Pie crazy – tomato tart, blueberry pie

Thursday, August 5th, 2010

By Elisa Muñoz

Pie! Is there anything more Southern and summery?

Birmingham's Best EatsAdd some in-season produce, a couple of friends and a delicious cocktail, and you have a summer evening to remember.

This summer, I have been pie crazy, so I decided to have eight friends over for a “pie night.” I used tomatoes and basil from my garden as well as Jones Valley Urban Farm for a tomato tart. I also made a delightful blueberry pie with berries from Jones Valley.

As we talked and ate, our bellies were filled, and our souls were enriched, a beautiful night, indeed. As Ned, the protagonist from the TV show “Pushing Daisies,” said, “Pie is coming home; people always come home.”

Yes they do, Ned.

• • •

tomato tart

This tomato tart features a homemade crust.
Photos by Elisa Muñoz.

Tomato Tart

(adapted from Epicurious)

  • Preparation time: 35 min.
  • Cooking time: 25 min.
  • Servings: 4

Ingredients

For black pepper Parmesan pastry:

  • 1-1/4 cups all-purpose flour
  • 6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
  • 2 tablespoons cold vegetable shortening
  • 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 2 to 4 tablespoons ice water

For filling:

  • 3/4 lb. fresh mozzarella, sliced 1/8 inch thick
  • 1/2 cup pesto (I made fresh pesto with homegrown basil!)
  • 2 lbs. mixed heirloom tomatoes, sliced 3/4 inch thick

Also:

  • pie weights or uncooked rice/beans

Pastry: Blend together flour, butter, shortening, Parmesan, pepper and salt in a bowl with your fingertips or a pastry blender (or pulse in a food processor) until mixture resembles coarse meal with some roughly pea-size lumps. Drizzle 2 tablespoons ice water over and gently stir with a fork (or pulse in food processor) until incorporated.

Gently squeeze a small handful. If it doesn’t hold together without falling apart, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring (or pulsing) after each addition until incorporated, continuing to test. (Do not overwork dough, or it will become tough.)

Turn out dough onto a work surface, and divide into two portions. With heel of your hand, smear each portion once in a forward motion to help distribute fat. Gather both portions of dough into one ball, then pat into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap, and chill until firm, about 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Roll out dough on a lightly floured surface into a 12-inch round and fit into a 9-inch round tart pan with a removable rim. Roll rolling pin over top of pan to trim dough flush with rim. Lightly prick tart shell all over with a fork.

Fill shell with pie weights or uncooked rice/beans. Bake in middle of oven 20 minutes. Carefully remove weights and bake until golden, about 15 minutes more.

Filling: Remove side of pan and slide shell onto a platter. Arrange a third of mozzarella in bottom of shell and drizzle with a third of pesto. Arrange a third of tomato slices, overlapping, on top of cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Repeat layering twice.

Bake additional 5 to 10 minutes until cheese is melted. Remove from oven, let cool, and serve.

• • •

blueberry pie

Blueberry pie made with fresh berries
can cap a perfect summer evening.

Blueberry Pie

(adapted from Martha Stewart)

  • Preparation time: 90 min. (30 min. active time)
  • Cooking time: 40-50 min.
  • Servings: 8

Ingredients

  • All-purpose flour, for dusting
  • 2 ready-made refrigerated pie crusts
  • 8 cups (about 4 pints) blueberries, picked over
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1/4 cup cornstarch
  • 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
  • 1 large egg yolk
  • 1 tablespoon whipping cream or heavy cream

On a lightly floured piece of parchment paper, roll out one disk of dough to a 12-inch round. With a dry pastry brush, sweep off excess flour; fit dough into a 9-inch glass pie plate, pressing it into edges.

Trim dough to a 1/2-inch overhang all around. Fold edge of dough over or under, and crimp as desired. Roll out remaining dough in the same manner; transfer dough (on parchment) to a baking sheet. Chill pie shell and dough until firm, about 30 minutes.

Place blueberries in a large bowl; with your hands, crush about 1/2 cup of berries, letting them fall into the bowl as you work. Add sugar, cornstarch and lemon juice; stir to combine. Spoon mixture into chilled pie shell, mounding berries slightly in the center. Dot with butter.

Remove dough from refrigerator, and place over blueberry filling. Tuck edge of top dough between edge of bottom dough and rim of pan. Using your fingers, gently press both layers of dough along the edge to seal, and crimp using a fork or fingers.

Use a paring knife to cut several steam vents in top of dough. In a small bowl, whisk together egg yolk and cream. Brush surface with egg wash; don’t let it pool up. Freeze or refrigerate pie until firm, about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Bake pie until crust begins to turn golden, about 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees. (You can cover the edges in foil to prevent them from overbaking.) Continue baking, rotating sheet halfway through, until crust is deep golden brown and juices are bubbling and have thickened, 40 to 50 minutes more.

pie-aftermath

Elisa MuñozElisa Muñoz is an avid cyclist and a food activist. In addition to founding and helping run the Bici Bicycle Cooperative, she is the program coordinator for Greater Birmingham Community Food Partners. Her thoughts on cycling and life in Birmingham can be found on Bike Skirt (@bikeskirt), a blog she co-writes.

• • •

Hungry for more? Check out the menu of Birmingham’s Best Eats!

Birmingham’s Best Eats: Gilchrist and the old South rarity, tomato aspic

Wednesday, August 4th, 2010

Tomato aspic, Gilchrist Drug Co.

Tomato aspic at the Gilchrist Drug Co. Photo by Wade Kwon.

By John-Bryan Hopkins

“Don’t eat anything your great-great-grandmother
wouldn’t recognize as food.” — Michael Pollan

Where do great-great-grandmothers eat? I remembered this charming corner soda shop/café in Mountain Brook, Gilchrist Drug Co. Very old-fashioned, old South and “grandmother-y.”

Birmingham's Best EatsThe place is usually teeming with children, mothers and, most importantly, older elegant Southern ladies. After reviewing the limited counter menu, I saw it: a phrase completely foreign to my culinary vernacular, tomato aspic. I had to order it.

These grande dames talked among themselves with perfectly coiffed hair, slow drawl and manners which made paper napkins appear to be fine linens. Every plate at their table was interesting. For example: a half-grapefruit-size scoop of deep red gelatin atop a piece of butter lettuce, served with a side of mayonnaise and several packs of saltines.

My plate arrived, and it was love at first bite. The aspic, served at room temperature, has a rich roasted tomato flavor with a hint of celery and anise spice. The mayo’s buttery texture and the saltine’s crunch made each bite even better.

Aspic, once a common side dish and main lunch item in the South, is now rare. Too bad. If good eating is about flavor, aspic is indeed a taste of times not forgotten.

Gilchrist Drug Co., Mountain Brook

Gilchrist Drug Co. is Mountain Brook’s oldest business,
in its original location since 1928.
Photo by John-Bryan Hopkins.

• • •

Gilchrist Drug Co.

  • 2805 Cahaba Road, Mountain Brook [map]
  • (205) 871-2181
  • Hours: 8 a.m.-4:45 p.m. Monday-Saturday

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Also:

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John-Bryan HopkinsBirmingham’s John-Bryan Hopkins loves talking about food facts, their origins and, most of all, what food means to us. His site/blog is Foodimentary (@Foodimentary).

• • •

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Birmingham’s Best Eats: The beauty of bánh mì

Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010

Shrimp bánh mì, Saigon Noodle House, $4.50.
Photo by Brad Daly.

By Glenny Brock and Brad Daly

As the only Vietnamese restaurant in town for a decade, Phở Quê Hương in Green Springs once had a monopoly on bánh mì in Birmingham. But the 2009 opening of Saigon Noodle House on U.S. 280 meant serious competition. Suddenly, Phở Quê Hương wasn’t the only place in town to get the scrumptious sandwich sometimes known as the Vietnamese po’boy.

Birmingham's Best EatsThe bánh mì may be the best thing to come out of colonialism: It’s essentially a French salad sandwich (vegetables on a baguette slathered with butter and mayo), enlivened with Vietnamese ingredients (soy sauce, fish sauce, daikon radish root or pickled carrots).

A good crusty French bread elevates any sandwich, but the combination of crisp vegetables and succulent meats puts the bánh mì in a different league.

Phở Quê Hương offers Vietnamese ham, grilled pork and roasted pork (or a combination of all three) as fillings. Saigon Noodle House has a bigger selection: påte, Vietnamese meatballs, roasted pork, charbroiled pork patties and Vietnamese ham, served in six possible combinations.

At just $4.50, the price is deliciously shocking in both places. And since the sandwich is a model of comfort food worldwide, the bánh mì makes a great introduction to Vietnamese cuisine.

For more, see the extended post on Stay Hungry.

• • •

Phở Quê Hương

  • 430 Green Springs Highway, Homewood, 35209 [map]
  • (205) 942-5400
  • Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday

Saigon Noodle House

  • Best Buy shopping center, 4606 U.S. 280, Birmingham, 35242 [map]
  • (205) 408-1800
  • Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday

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Also:

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Glenny Brock

Brad DalyWriter Glenny Brock (@glennybrock) and photographer Brad Daly (@bwdaly) launched the Birmingham food blog Stay Hungry (@stayhungrybham) in June. He cooks, she writes, and they both eat, thoughtfully.

• • •

Hungry for more? Check out the menu of Birmingham’s Best Eats!

Birmingham’s Best Eats: Slow down with sautéed summer corn

Monday, August 2nd, 2010

By Amanda Storey

People often wonder how I find the time to cook from scratch. When I’m in a hurry, I remember words of wisdom from my friend and West End Community Garden program director Ama Shambulia: “Slow down.”

Birmingham's Best EatsDuring the last few weeks, those two words kept coming up. We are surrounded by 10-minute meals, easy-chopping gadgets, instant gratification via Facebook status updates and drive-through restaurants galore to help us out on extra-busy nights.

I’m busy, just like you’re busy. To find my happy place and ensure I’m prepping for the crazy week ahead, I take advantage of Sundays. I prep, roast, plan and get a head start on menu options. Sundays force me to reconnect for just a couple of hours.

In the spirit of slowing down to celebrate summer, I have a locally sourced, simple, seasonal and delicious side dish to eat throughout the week.

• • •

Sauteed Summer Corn

Spend a Sunday turning fresh corn into a weeklong dish.
Photo by Amanda Storey.

Sautéed Summer Corn

  • Preparation time: 12 minutes
  • Cooking time: 25 minutes
  • Servings: 4

Ingredients

  • 6 ears Silver Queen corn (purchased from a local farmer)
  • 1 small green bell pepper, diced (from Jones Valley Urban Farm)
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon butter (I used Wright Dairy)
  • Pinch salt, pepper
  • Grated Parmesan

Strip the ear of corn until most of the silk is removed. Stand the ear on its end and run knife down sides to cut the kernels off of the cob. Go slow, or else your kernels will hit the floor.

Add butter and olive oil to skillet on medium heat. Add corn and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes. Add diced bell pepper and pinch of salt and pepper.

Sauté together until kernels start to turn a golden yellow, 15 minutes or so. Taste for seasoning and texture.

Turn off stove. Stir in a few tablespoons of finely grated Parmesan.

Serve with Mexican-flavored quinoa, tacos or sliced tomatoes and cornbread.

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Amanda StoreyAmanda Storey is project coordinator of Healthy Kids, Healthy Communities, a 4-year grant aimed at fighting childhood obesity in Jefferson County. In her spare time, she writes about her true passion: food as a connector to communities on her blog, Food Revival (@foodrevival).

• • •

Hungry for more? Check out the menu of Birmingham’s Best Eats!

Birmingham’s Best Eats: How to host a whiskey tasting

Sunday, August 1st, 2010

whiskey, bourbon, Scotch

Buy, borrow or steal real glasses for your whiskey tasting party.
Anything’s better than plastic. Photo by Sean Kelley.

By Sean Kelley

A few years ago, a New Orleans chef surprised me with an aged bourbon that had all the character and complexity of a refined single malt Scotch. I thought bourbon was the stuff you mixed with Coke before football games.

Birmingham's Best EatsI’ve been on a whiskey journey since, touring Kentucky distilleries, interviewing tasters and sampling varieties. It culminated in a springtime whiskey tasting on our farm, and we’re planning our second this fall. We spent about $400 on our party, the bulk on whiskey.

So how do you host a whiskey tasting?

Plan with variety in mind. We sampled three bourbons and three Scotches; each was very different. I started with mild mainstream ones: If you start out with an unexpected or harsh kind, like a peaty Islay Scotch, your guests may have a hard time tasting the next sample.

Discuss the lineup. After some online research, I kept notes on cards to share with guests. I asked them what flavors they tasted, noting them for future reference.

Have plenty of distilled water on hand. Some vintages are better and more interesting with a few drops of water. And not everyone drinks whiskey straight.

Choose a complementary menu. Ours included smoked ribs, jalepeño creamed corn, bourbon baked beans and, of course, bourbon balls.

It’s a tasting, not a drinking orgy. Keep tasting sizes to around 1/2 ounce. Use a jigger to measure. And spread your party over several hours: We sampled from 5 to 9 p.m. and allowed guests plenty of time to recover before they left.

Cheers!

Sean KelleySean Kelley (@seankelley) is a Birmingham health writer and food lover as well as writer, editor and online content manager for Everwell.

• • •

Hungry for more? Check out the menu of Birmingham’s Best Eats!